Day trip to Beitou Hot Spring Village and Tamsui

Steam rising from the thermal valley’s pale jade-green spring, framed by dense trees and a walkway of stone. — Beitou Thermal Valley

I wrote a short time ago about my experience doing the Jinmianshan trail in Taipei, Taiwan. I had a handful of other adventures there, including visiting Beitou hot springs and doing a spotaneous hike in the area. This hike was part of the Danfeng Mountain Trail. The part I walked didn’t have very interesting views to it, but I walked up a path and looked at my maps app on my phone to see where it went, and it looked like it might be worth exploring so I did it anyway.

Many stone steps go downhill through dense woodland, with a low concrete edge tracing the path and glimpses of Beitou buildings through the trees. — The concrete steps I walked up to access the hike

Stone steps lead through a wooded clearing at the Danfeng Mountain historic shrine area. Weathered stone markers and a small stone lantern base sit among the rocks and fallen leaves. — The trail had some shrines

I came across some older women at a landmark who were enjoying a break on their hike. They had come from the other direction. I was able to speak to them as they could speak a bit of English, and after warming up to me, they invited me to join them. But I chose to head back the way I came from, because by the sounds of things, it would end up being further from where I wanted to go.

Hikers gather beneath a large red, phoenix-shaped sculpture at the Danfeng Mountain summit lookout in Beitou. The open platform is bordered by trees and a dark wooden railing — Some fit Asian aunties taking a break during their hike

The trail was quite clear in some spots, but steep in others, and had ropes to hang onto for stability. I was laughing at the fact that I was wearing a pair of shorts in a floaty fabric and was loose-fitting so it looked like a skirt, but it was very comfortable! I also just had my Vans shoes, but they were OK to trek in. It was worth the extra exercise and the walk through a bit of nature.

A narrow dirt path climbs through dense ferns and grasses on the Danfeng Mountain trail, with a rope strung along the right side to help hikers over the uneven ground. — As soon as you see ropes, you know it’s a semi-serious hike

Just before going on my spontaneous hike, I spent time in the Xinbeitou Historic Train Station, the Beitou Hot Spring Museum and the thermal valley. The train station had lots of souvenirs for sale, and a train and part of the tracks was preserved just outside the museum.

The restored wooden Xinbeitou Historic Station stands on a grassy plaza, its dark tiled roof and Japanese-era design framed by modern apartment towers. — Xinbeitou Historic Train Station

A mother and her child walk along the preserved railway tracks in Qixing Park near Xinbeitou Historic Station. The grassy park, trees, and station-side structures sit beneath an overcast sky — A mother and child walking on the preserved railway track

There were some incredible views of the hot springs at the valley, and several shops around the area from which you could buy snacks and drinks.

Two visitors dip their hands into the shallow hot water hand soaking pool beside Xinbeitou Historic Station, beneath a wooden shelter. — You could place your hands in this hot water pool, just hot enough to enjoy the temperature

A hot spring creek tumbles over a low stone ledge in leafy Beitou Hot Spring Park, with city buildings rising beyond the trees. — I loved the look of the park with the town buildings in the background

Curved rows of stone seating and small water outlets form an outdoor ampitheatre beneath the trees in Beitou Hot Spring Park. A visitor sits on the upper tier with a sketchbook. — An outdoor ampitheatre with an old man at the back with his sketchbook

A path crosses the lawns and wooded grounds of Beitou Hot Spring Park, with the dark-roofed Beitou Library pavilion nestled among trees and apartment towers beyond. — Another park view

Red and white lanterns hang beneath the timber roof of a covered balcony, overlooking a Park. The museum occupies the restored 1913 public bathhouse. — Lanterns at the Hot Springs Museum

The museum’s former public bathing pool, lined with small mosaic tiles, is shown with illustrated displays explaining Beitou’s hot spring history. — A display in the museum resembling a public bath

A tiled exhibit wall displaying old bathing fixtures and stools beside a glass case of artifacts, evoking the bathing rooms of the historic bathhouse. — A display in the museum showing wooden stools like in a bathhouse

Visitors lean over a stone basin at Thermal Valley’s entrance to rinse their hands with spring water. Stone information panels describe the area. — Another spot to put your hands in the spring water

One of the snacks was the soft boiled egg (apparently cooked in the hot springs!), which I had with chilli, and a spicy sausage. It was another two things to add to my list of glorious Taiwanese food I’d tried and enjoyed.

A person’s hand holding a soft boiled egg in a small plastic bag, showing the yolk of the egg — Delicious egg cooked in water from the spring!

I didn’t come very prepared to use any hot spring baths, but I had done my research before leaving for my day trip. I had shortlisted two spots that were loved by locals according to Google Maps. One of them, called Long Nice Hot Spring, had a foot-only bath, which was the one I really wanted to try. I had brought a towel with me, but no change of clothes. When I walked up to the place that had the foot-only bath, I found that those baths were only open at certain times of the day and week. I wasn’t entirely sure if I was down for the full body hot bath experience. I sat outside, passed a bit of time on my phone, and debated whether I should try it or not. Eventually I decided—what the heck, I came all the way here, and maybe this is a little outside of my comfort zone but it might be a life-changing new experience.

Although I wouldn’t describe it as life-changing, I did have the cliche feeling of feeling like a fresh new person. The communal baths were split by gender (male and female) and you were given a locker key to store your belongings. You are required to shower and wash yourself prior to entering the baths, and also wash the plastic stool you use if you sit by the side of the baths. You are also required to shower yourself before re-entering. Essentially, the water in the baths must be clean, and your body must be completely clean before going into the water.

There were two baths, one at around 40ºC and the other at 43ºC—it is shocking how much of a difference just 3 degrees makes. The hotter one was very, very hot, and I could barely step in completely. But I was able to sit in the cooler one quite comfortably, immersing my whole body up to my shoulders. Attempting the hotter bath again was extremely gradual, but even then, I could not stay in there for much longer than a couple of minutes.

The whole experience was very meditative, as are most experiences where you sort of can’t do much but sit there and be with your thoughts. I was at the baths for around an hour. I debated what to do next as it wasn’t quite dinner time and the day was still kind of young! I ended up taking the train to Tamsui, where my friend Sha had recommended going at night for the sunset and for food. I just had to get on the train and journey for about 40–50 minutes.

I spent a long time in all the souvenir shops until they started to look the same, but I have to say, the souvenirs in Taiwanese shops are really lovely! I think there is a wide variety of souvenirs compared to other cities I have visited, and the quality is also pretty decent. I am a magnet hoe, so I bought a bunch of fridge magnets. They make fantastic gifts to bring back to friends and fam. I also spotted some handkerchiefs of beautiful soft thin cotton, which I really needed. (Yes, I am one of those people who uses handkerchiefs.)

Rather than dining in somewhere for dinner, I settled for street food and snacks, as there was no shortage of food stalls down the waterfront. I spent time watching and enjoying the sunset and pleasant weather, and then had some candied fruit and some fried squid.

A low orange sun hangs over the water as people gather along the promenade, with trees and streetlights silhouetted against a softly clouded sky — Beautiful sunset at Tamsui 🌅

Visitors stroll past brightly lit shops on Tamsui Old Street, a busy waterfront area known for food stalls and souvenir shopping — Souvenir shops in Tamsui by the water

A selfie of a person with long dark hair and wearing a yellow top and black cardigan, holding a skewer with sugar glazed strawberries. It is evening and there is a waterfront behind them with a cloudy sky — Tanghulu, sugar coated fruit on a skewer

A brightly lit stall displays skewered, golden-brown snacks beneath a photo menu, with shoppers passing by. — Fried meat, seafood, and snacks!

I knew it would be a long journey back, so I kept that in mind. But when I was on the train, I felt like I had just a little bit of energy left, so I went to the Shilin Night Market. I hoped not to regret my decision as my feet became sore after realising the market was much bigger than I thought.

A narrow lane in Taipei’s Shilin Night Market recedes beneath colorful circular lights, with shopfronts, closed metal shutters, and a few people and scooters along the walkway. — Just one view down one of the streets in the Shilin Night Market 💗

Many of the clothing vendors sold the same things, so it was easy to skip past them. Having already eaten, I was not in the mood for more food, but I could not pass up milk tea. Hahaha. I drank so much milk tea when I was in Taiwan. The quality and taste is simply too good. I thought I may visit Shilin Night Market again, but I felt like there were other markets to explore, so I never did end up going back during my stay.

Overall, a successful and well-packed day, and I was very pleased with myself!